Monday 13 October 2014

18 The Cumbria Way (2014)




Length  : 70  miles

Started :  7  July  2013

Finished : 13 October  2014

Companions :  ( in full ) Dave Morris, Wendy  Guest ;  ( in part )  Helen Smith, Serena  Armstrong , Steve  Briggs ( these  first  three  all  completed  the  trail  through  doing  catch-up  walks ) ,  Pete  Hesketh,  Elizabeth  Currid, Andy  Roughley, Anthony  Barlow, Jane  Harrison, Ross  Bishop, Chris Hughes, Steve  Taylor, Rachel  Glascott, Allie  Fitzsimmons, Mark Woodall

Guide : The  Cumbria  Way - John Trevelyan ( Dalesman )

There  are  a  number  of  interlocking  stories  here. One was  simply  to  find  another  excuse  to  revisit  one  of  the  Group's  favourite  places  to  stay, Green View  Lodges  at  Welton ; the  Cumbria  Way  passes  within  a  mile  of  the  entrance Another  was  that  , with  my  fiftieth  birthday  approaching  rapidly  I   originally  intended to  largely  retire  from  LYPWG  and  this  seemed  a  fitting  finale  revisiting  some  scenes  of  earlier  triumphs. And  perhaps  somewhere at  the  back  of  my  mind  was  the  thought  that  it  was  unfinished  business  from  the  Michael  Smithson  era - I  bought  the  guide  in  either  Ambleside  or  Windermere  back  in  July  1981  at  the  end  of  our  great  hostelling  adventure.

We  did  the  first  section  from  Ulverston  to  Coniston  amid  blazing  sunshine. Steve  B  and  I  had  stayed  in  Ulverston  overnight  in  order  to  plant  a  car  at  Coniston  but  the  numbers  on  the  day  meant  we  still  had  to  do  a  shuffle at  the  start. This  in  turn  meant  we  had  to  keep  up  a  good  pace  in  order  to  finish  at  a  reasonable  time  and  that  was  a  tough  proposition  in  those  temperatures. On  top  of  that  there  was  nowhere  until  very  close  to  the  end  where  more  liquid  could  be  purchased. Wendy  and  I  had  a  paddle  in  Beacon  Tarn  but  that  was  the  only  relief  to  be  had  until  arrival  at  the  Monk  Conston  campsite  where  ice  lollies  were  devoured  at  a  very  fast  rate  while  news  of  Andy  Murray's  triumph  came  through  from  the  back  of  the  shop. I  couldn't  eat  anything  else  until  hours  afterwards.

The  next  section  from  Coniston  to  Great  Langdale  was  done  in  October  2013. Dave, Pete  and  I  stayed  at  the  independent  hostel  in  Ambleside  on  the  Saturday  night. The  accommodation  was  quite  basic. I  had  to  roll  myself  into  the  lower  bunk  because  there  was  so  little  clearance; good  preparation  for  a  coffin  I'd  have  thought.  Dave  and  I  enjoyed  a  good  curry  in  Ambleside  when  the  rain  wasn't  quite  bucketing  as  hard  as  before. On  the  morning  it  was  still  raining  hard  and  Pete  decided  to  give  it  a  miss  although  he  ferried  Dave  and  I  from  Great  Langdale  to  Coniston  which  made  another  shuffle  unnecessary. Apart  from  a  brief  spell  at  the  very  beginning  and  end  of  the  walk  it  rained  all  day  which  did  dampen  the  spirits  a  bit  although  it  made  Skelwith  Force  more  spectacular.

The  awkward  nature  of  the  next  section , Great  Langdale  to  Keswick  in  terms  of  transport  links  made  it  necessary  to  split  it  into  two  walks  over  a  weekend  in  April  this  year. I  let  people  sort  out  their  own  accommodation  in  Keswick. Julie found  us  a  place  to  stay  about  a  mile  out  of  the  centre. The  weather  was  even  worse  than  on  the  previous  section but  surprisingly  we  were  joined  by  two  new  girls  at  Keswick. I  don't  think  I'd  recognise  either  of  them  again  as  we  were  all  huddled  up  in  waterproofs  all  day. Although  scenically  lovely  both  walks  were  a  joyless  trudge  and  as  we  sat  dripping  in  a  Keswick  tea  shop  at  the  end  we  hoped  for  better  on  the  final  weekend.

Colin, the  proprietor  at  Green View  gave  us  a  generous  discount  for  previous  business  which  meant  it  worked  out  at  £46  per  person  for  three  nights, ridicuously  good  value. The  only  downside  was  that  the  pub  next  door  was  now  closed. The  rain  hammering  on  the  roof  when  I  woke  up  on  Saturday  didn't  bode  well  but  apart  from  two  brief  showers  we  had  perfect  autumn  weather  for  our  final  two  stages.

On  Saturday  we  walked  from  Keswick  to  Caldbeck  using  the  bus  service. It's  a  long  stretch  on  mainly  hard  tracks  and  the  toughest  bit  comes  just  as  your  energy  levels  are  starting  to  flag. I  led  it  too  fast  to  try  and ( fruitlessly )  suit  one  member  of  the  party who  had  to  get  back   and  managed  to  give  myself  sore  knees  and  blisters  for  the  following  day. Caldbeck  to  Carlisle  is  also  a  long  stretch  but  mostly  very  easy  or  should  have  been; in  my  case  it  was  a  rather  painful  ordeal  that  I  was  relieved  to  finish. Then  it  was  a  quick  dip  in  the  hot  tub , a  celebratory  glass  of  Buck's  Fizz  then  off  home  with  school  in  the  morning  for  Simon.

Because  of  the  weather  and  self-inflicted  wounds  this  won't  be  the  most  fondly  remembered  of  my  trails  but  it  is  an  excellent  route  from  start  to  finish