Thursday, 14 August 2014
17 The Witches' Way ( 2014 )
Length: 30 miles
Date started : 27 June 2012
Date completed : 13 August 2014
Companions : Julie Farrell ; ( in part ) Simon Farrell
Guide : Witches' Way - David Johnson and Jim Ashton ( Dalesman Books 1984 )
This was Julie and Is' next project which we completed a bit faster than the Bronte Way but given the length we were still a bit laggardly.
The Witches' Way is the most obscure route to feature here. I bought the guide in 1988 , four years after it was first published and I'm guessing it went out of print not long afterwards. I've never heard anyone mention it in the last 25 years. I chose it because it wasn't too far away and passed through a few areas of Lancashire that were unfamiliar to me.
The walk was devised by two long distance walking enthusiasts who haven't volunteered any personal information apart from their home addresses ( Bury and London ) to put a long distance trail in upland Lancashire. I think they meant "long distance" in terms of a single day's hike, which would certainly be a challenge on this route !
The walk runs from Rawtenstall to Slaidburn and visits the summit of Pendle Hill ( the third route on here to do so ). The story of the Pendle Witches provides an overarching theme although neither starting nor end point feature in it and places that do - Sabden, Newchurch and Barley for example - are by-passed. It's quite a tough little route which often eschews easier alternatives close at hand.
One other comment on the route should be made. It was quite difficult to follow in parts ( details below ) and we'd have come unstuck without the Forest of Bowland and Ribblesdale OS map. Quite a lot had changed on the ground and it's brought home to me that I can't now use any of the guides I acquired in the seventies and eighties by themselves ( except of course my beloved Wainwrights ); if I'm still going to use them they'll need matching with a recent map beforehand.
We started it in June 2012 on a weekday and "against the clock" in terms of getting back to pick Simon up from his childminder at the agreed time. We parked in Rawtenstall and walked to Hapton. I'd done most of it before and it was fairly straightforward but had a sting in the tail. On the very last stretch into Hapton what used to be ( according to the book ) a simple stroll along a hedge was now an enclosed path between two wire fences and it was completely overgrown. The friendly guy at nearby Sellars Fold said no one had tried to walk it for years. With some misgivings we gave it a go but halfway down a substantial tree had fallen across it without bringing the sturdy fences down. It was completely impassable and we had to retreat back to Sellars Fold and take an alternative path. Once at the finishing point we needed to get to Hapton station for a train back to Burnley. The path we took ( not part of the route ) was an adventure too ; although a very scenic valley route it was flooded in parts and we finished the walk with wet feet. Our reward was a free train ride to Burnley as no one came to sell us tickets and we caught the bus back to Rawtenstall.
The next section from Hapton to Read was done in July. The weather was fine and it was a good walk apart from one short stretch behind the industrial estate at Altham Bridge ( built since the book ) where the path was very overgrown and boggy. Beyond that the stretch alongside the river Calder was spoiled by the litter presumably left by picnickers or illicit teenage drinkers. We had a wait for the bus to Burnley at Read ; Julie asked an old guy where it stopped and he said "Oh aye we've got buses here" and proceeded to give her an idiot's guide to village life. We had a bite to eat at Burnley's Witherspoon's then caught the bus back to Hapton where we'd parked.
We didn't get round to the next stage until the Easter Holidays in 2013 when we took Simon along for the section between Read ( where we parked ) and Nick o Pendle. It was a straightforward and enjoyable section although Simon didn't enjoy the biting wind in our faces on the high section along Wiswell Moor. From Nick o' Pendle we dropped down to Sabden for the bus and Simon enjoyed himself in the play park there.
Julie and I did the next section in July during Simon's last week at school on a very hot day. We parked at Clitheroe and caught the bus to Sabden. The uphill walk back to Nick o Pendle was strength-sapping in the heat. I didn't tell Julie we were going up Pendle Hill to see if she could work it out for herself. The route chosen by the authors was a strange one , leaving the fairly easy main path from the Nick and striking out for the huge cairn on Mearley Moor ( Pendle's western ridge ) . The approach from the cairn to the summit is a good one but to get there was a rough, mainly trackless passage made more difficult by the heat. Julie didn't twig straight away on the summit but guessed with some prompting. She didn't like the stepped descent from the hill and took it very slowly. We then had some catching up to do to get back in time to pick Simon up and halfway down to Downham decided we had better abandon the route and head down the road to make sure we caught the bus back to Clitheroe. We did the missed out section ( ironically completely trouble-free and probably quicker than the road ) as a short walk with Simon in August.
Julie and I did the next section from Downham to Grindleton on a school day in October. Again I didn't tell Julie about Sawley Abbey so it would be a surprise to her. We had lunch there and Julie told the workers from English Heritage about some doggy-doo bags that were disfiguring the site. We went a bit off route at the end as the field boundaries had changed making the fguide misleading,
We did the next section last week ( August 2014 ) with Simon. We parked in Clitheroe and caught the bus to Grindleton. We got back on the right route but had a problem at Steelands Farm where the book explicitly said don't go through the farmyard but the avoidance route has since been blocked off and we had to crawl through a wall. There was a tough bit just beyond there where you have to cross a brook and then go up a steep slope but beyond that it was an easy and pleasant stroll alongside Grindleton Forest to Walloper Well on the Waddington Moor road. Simon and I wanted to press on to Slaidburn and finish the walk but Julie didn't fancy it.
I warned that the weather might not be as good when we came back to it and was proved right yesterday when we set off along the short but rough section across Standridge Hill in a heavy shower. The rain had also made the wooden stiles very slippery on the descent towards the Hodder valley and we had some difficulty getting over them safely. The path had changed to the other side of the fence / hedge since the book ( or they got it wrong ) and now went through a copse festooned with quails for the local shooting brigade which entailed ploughing through thistles. The final section from Easington was easy and pleasant. We had a meal at the cafe in Slaidburn then took the bus back to Walloper Well.
Despite the little problems encountered it is a good route and it seems a shame that it never took off.
Thursday, 8 May 2014
16 Hadrian's Wall Path (2014)
Length : 85 miles
Date Started : 17th September 2011
Date completed : 4th May 2014
Companions : Andy Roughley, Helen Smith, Serena Armstrong, Dave Morris, Wendy Guest, John Hutchinson ( in part ) Chris Cooper, Rachel Fallows plus a friend, Catherine Seville, Pamela Banks, Janet Whittaker, Phil Burton, Steve Taylor
Guide : Hadrian's Wall Path - Mark Richards ( Cicerone )
By popular consensus this was the next LYPWG long distance trail project after finishing the Thirlmere Way. We started it in September 2011, a notable month for me for work-related reasons.
The plan was to walk it over four weekends with the last partly given over to socialising in Newcastle although I was keen to make sure that this consideration did not take precedence over the walking and sightseeing en route. We decided to walk it West to East ( i.e. Bowness- on- Solway to Wallsend ) because the Bowness to Carlisle section is largely a shortened version of the penultimate Cumbria Coastal Way section and doing that again on the final day would be too much of an anti-climax.
For the first weekend eleven of us ( including Julie and Simon ) stayed at Green View Lodges, Welton where we enjoyed the hospitality of our friend Colin and his jacuzzi once again. This time round the pub next door was open for food and though I only had a dessert there ( we self-catered ) everyone else gave it the thumb's- up. Julie was disappointed that another family who had planned to come up and share baby-sitting duties couldn't make it.
Bowness-on-Solway is a quiet and remote place and it took us a short while to find the actual start/end of the Trail which is a little gazebo overlooking the Solway Firth. The walk itself was uneventful, the long road trudge no more enthralling than two years earlier, although the bus journey back from Carlisle was enlivened by a pisshead on the back seat groaning about how much he needed the loo the entire distance
On the Sunday two more members drove up for the day. We walked from Carlisle to Newtown, just short of where the first visible section of the Wall itself is to be found, the lack of Wall being a frequent cause for comment over that weekend. Around lunchtime we experienced the only serious rainfall of the whole adventure but it lifted soon afterwards. We had a tea stop at Lanercost Priory. Some of us stayed over till the Monday, two of the girls going on to a rainy week of caravaning in Scotland while we went on to Keswick.
The next stage was undertaken in July 2012. I booked two self-catering cottages at a remote farm Talkinhead near Brampton. We had another last minute drop out but at least he paid up. Two girls who signed up later stayed at a B and B in the town rather than risk paying extra for an unused bed. As it happened the landlady had a spare cottage that weekend and invited us to spread out. It had a fantastic view, was clean and comfortable and the evening meal we ordered on the Sunday night was excellent. Simon enjoyed playing with the puppies on site.
The walking was of a much higher quality and the weather was very good. Some of us had lunch at Lanercost Priory; others just ate their sandwiches there. We walked as far as the museum at Birdoswald on the first day. On the second day the plan was to walk to Once Brewed ; one girl placed her car there early in the morning to get back in time for Murray v Federer in the Wimbledon Final. When we got to Walltown Crags and stopped for lunch she pressed on to the finish. However by Cawfields Quarry one member was feeling under the weather so we called it a day there and caught the bus from the Milecastle Inn rather than marching on. We (Julie, Simon and I) drove off to Keswick for the rest of the week as soon as we'd had tea; some stayed on and did some walking on the monday.
At this point one member bailed out of the project due to a non-resolvable personal issue which had clouded the first two weekends to some extent. The plan was to do the next stage in the autumn but we couldn't find a date that suited everyone who was committed to doing the full route and so the third stage took place just over a year later. This time we stayed at The Twice Brewed Inn which turned out to be the poorest accommodation of the four.The rooms and evening meals were OK but the packed lunches were poor and the breakfasts terrible. It wasn't an ideal venue for Simon either. Although he and Julie got to visit Housesteads on the sunday she decided not to come up for the final stage.
On the Saturday we walked from Cawfields to Tower Tye, stopping for 20 minutes at a country fair at Steel Rigg. We stopped for lunch at Housesteads but didn't explore the fort. Just after Housesteads the long continuous stretch of Wall ends and the scenery gradually begins to decline. At Tower Tye we had to wait an hour for the bus back so we decided to do a car shuffle instead the following day. We walked from Tower Tye to Halton Shields the highlight being a very nice tea shop at St Oswald's near Chollerford .
We decided to do the final stage on the first May Bank Holiday the following year although two of those involved didn't actually sign up for it. Without Julie and Simon influencing the choice of accommodation I plumped for a well-reviewed farm-based hostel , Houghton North Farm in Heddon-On-The-Wall. and wasn't disappointed. The beds were comfy, the place was spotlessly clean and the landlady couldn't have been more friendly and helpful as well as rustling up scrambled eggs at breakfast time. We were also near a nice pub The Swan which did good meals ; the Carvery on the Saturday night was good value for £5.95.
The rest of the Trail was a so-so walk but we were expecting that. The route from Halton Shields to Heddon-on -the-Wall hugged the B-road, often just a hedge's width away and we were in Heddon by 1.30. After stopping for a brew and some victuals at the tea shop in the village we decided to walk on a bit further to Newburn on the outskirts of Newcastle. This stretch involved a steep drop to the banks of the Tyne and then a flat but hard on the feet stroll through urban parkland. The walk ended at a not particularly friendly pub The Boat House - where the football-watching locals jealously guarded their half-time scollops and sausages- from where we caught a taxi back.
The final day was all tarmac and concrete. First it follows an old railway line through Newcastle's western suburbs to a bridge over the A1 and then a concrete walkway into the city centre. We had lunch either from Gregg's or a market vendor on the waterfront then ploughed on towards Wallsend alongside the Tyne. After an unwelcome climb up the bank where the landscape became industrial we had just a tedious tarmac trudge for a couple of miles along another old railway before arriving at the Segedunum roman fort and museum which meant we had completed the trail. The museum allowed us in to take some pictures then we went to the cafe for drinks and over-generous slices of cheesecake We then caught a taxi into Newcastle for a celebratory drink in the city centre.
Of course this is the first National Trail to feature here. The waymarking throughout was excellent and what with the general direction being pretty obvious all the way, the guide hardly had to come out of the rucksack. With the unappealing sections of hard surface walking at either end it can't be given top marks but was certainly worth doing.
Monday, 25 November 2013
15 The Lancashire Trail (2013)
Length : 70 miles
Started : 17 July 2011
Finished : 24 November 2013
Companions : Various members of Lancashire Young Persons Walking Group. Andy Roughley, Paul Dalessandro, Helen Smith, Serena Armstrong, Mark Billington and Joanne Scott led individual sections. No one except me completed the full trail.
Guide : The Lancashire Trail - Brian Smailes ( Challenge Publications )
The seed for this one was sown on the penultimate stage of The Ribble Way ( March 2010 )when I bought the guidebook at the Pen-y-Ghent Café in Horton-in-Ribblesdale. It seemed a pretty obvious choice for the Group to move on to after we finished The Thirlmere Way.
The Lancashire Trail was the brainchild of members of the St Helens Rambling Group hence its start in that town which has never been in Lancashire. It runs from there in a roughly north eastern direction to Thornton-in-Craven just over the border into North Yorkshire. The guide was first published in 2003. The Trail has no official status and is not waymarked as such.
I led the first section from St Helens to Orrell in July 2011, just a month after finishing The Thirlmere Way. About a dozen members turned up.We parked at Orrell Town Hall then caught the bus into St Helens. We had a little time to wait so Andy and I went into the Co-Op nearby ; an old bloke on crutches and his mate were in the shop and boy did they reek - we didn't linger. The forecast was terrible but it wasn't actually raining when we got off in St Helens. The first two or three miles were pretty grim, St Helens not being the prettiest of towns and we encountered a not particularly friendly dog as we skirted a housing estate. We got past that unscathed and into slightly nicer territory around Country Park. Unfortunately almost as soon as the scenery improved the weather deteriorated and we were walking in heavy rain for the rest of the day. We had a late lunch on the top of Billinge Hill because the lee of the tower on the summit was the best shelter we could find. By that time we had picked up another member who lived locally whose knowledge was useful as the guidebook was disintegrating in my hands at that time. Andy who was leading the next section joked that he would do it in the winter when the weather was better.
He actually did it in March. There was a slightly larger turnout. We met in Wigan town centre and used buses at the start and end of the walk. There was some confusion at the beginning because one of the roads in the directions was blocked. I stopped at the barrier to ask the workmen where to go and not only were they unhelpful one started taking a picture of my car on the grounds that I was blocking the road ! Needless to say I never received any prosecution notice. That was the only drama on the walk which was a pleasant stroll in fine crisp weather. We finished at Coppull Moor where we had a half hour wait for the bus. One new member strangely decided to walk off rather than wait with us and we eventually overtook her on the bus.
The next section was led by Paul ( in June I think ) a short easy section from Coppull Moor to Rivington, accomplished by a rather complex car shuffle involving parking in Chorley. There were around 8 of us, most of whom had only joined the Group recently. The weather was dodgy and we got caught in a heavy shower around lunchtime. We had to shelter in the doorway of Blackrod Community Centre to eat our sandwiches.
Helen was down to lead the next section from Rivington to Abbey Village in September. I couldn't ,make it on that date as I had to look after Simon so I did the walk by myself a few weeks earlier. It was a decent day but very wet underfoot in places due to recent rain. I parked in Adlington and walked an extra mile to the start. Near White Coppice the footbridge over Dean Black Brook was unreachable as the brook was flowing over the top of it. I had to make a long detour upstream and then a daring leap across the fast-flowing brook to continue with the walk. I caught two buses which connected very well to get back to my car. The day of Helen's walk was another wet one. Simon and I were in the area having done a short, curtailed walk with the Chorley Scramblers near Brinscall so we caught up with the party in the pub at the end. There were about 10 of them and they looked like drowned rats.
Serena led the next section from Abbey Village to Mellor in March this year on a fine but bitterly cold day where you had to keep moving to stay warm. She got a good turnout and after a bit of a struggle to park at Abbey due to a fell race, it was uneventful.
I couldn't make Mark's next section from Mellor to Whalley so I went on his recce on a Wednesday instead while Simon was at school. I popped a tyre in Ramsbottom on the way which meant we were walking against the clock, not helped by one or two wrong turns. The first half of the walk from Mellor to Langho is probably the dullest section of the whole Trail but things improved as we got nearer to Whalley. I didn't get much feedback from the Group walk but I think he got a decent turnout.
Joanne's section from Whalley to Barley via Pendle Hill in September got a huge turnout- 20+ . I took the train up to Whalley rather than drive. Unusually she started the walk in the early afternoon. The weather was good and the walk was done at a fairly fast pace. Some members stayed for a meal in Whalley.
I was due to lead the final section from Barley to Thornton-in-Craven and thought it might be nice and make the car shuffle easier if we stayed at Earby overnight. Unfortunately YHA rules meant we would have to book two nights and this killed the idea stone dead.
I lead the final section yesterday. There were seven of us. We parked at Thornton-in-Craven and took two cars to Barley. We set off in the rain but after half an hour it stopped and we were dry for the rest of the day. It was a pleasant and varied walk and seemed shorter than the 10 miles given in the book. We were finished by 2.30 pm and went to the Pendle Inn in Barley for a drink.
As a whole the Trail is a good walk especially if you don't know the southern half of the county that well. There was little that was unfamiliar to me but it was worth doing.
Monday, 16 April 2012
14 The Bronte Way (2012)
Length : 40 miles ( according to the guide - I'd say it was a bit longer )
Started : 4th January 2004
Finished : 15th April 2012
Companions : Julie Farrell ; (in part) Simon Farrell
Guide : Set of leaflets produced by SCOSPA 1992
Well, we certainly made heavy weather of this one didn't we ? For a relatively short and not over - demanding route close to home it shouldn't really have taken 8 years to complete ! Some of the story behind this laggardliness has already been told in other posts but this walk had some mini-dramas all of its own.
Julie and I started out walking this as "our next one" after The Wyre Way. The Bronte Way dates from the early 1980s as a partnership project between councils and water authorities on both sides of the Lancashire -Yorkshire border who contributed to the Standing Conference of South Pennine Authorities. The route connects a number of different sites associated with the Brontes in the South Pennines area starting at Oakwell Hall to the south east of Bradford and finishing at Gawthorpe Hall near Burnley. It mainly uses existing rights of way but a concessionary path was granted by Yorkshire Water Authority to avoid a lengthy road walk beyond Ponden. Some of the route particularly on the Lancashire side has subsequently been re-used by the local authorities for their own trails ( causing a bit of confusion when picking out the route on OS maps ) and I'm not sure anyone now recognises an obligation to maintain The Bronte Way. Although many of the original pink waymarks remain in place they're all looking a bit weatherbeaten.
So we started it on Sunday 4th January 2004. We parked at Oakwell Hall which is set in its own parks noting the time the gates were locked. We had no set target for the first stage ; as the route crossed a number of bus routes leading into Bradford we would just stop when the clock dictated we would need to get to the city for the bus back to Oakwell Hall. The first few miles were unremarkable weaving their way between the little towns to the south of the M62 but I like the West Yorkshire landscape and that offset the melancholia I was feeling at the likelihood ( ha ha ) that this was the last one I would complete in my thirties. Our problems began after crossing the M62 near Hartshead Moor Services. We didn't have a map of the area apart from the sketch map in the leaflet and the directions made no mention of the extensive golf course now before us. With no waymarks to guide us through the maze of tracks we ended up going quite badly off course. Though we eventually found someone who was able to get us back on the route we arrived in Bailiff Bridge too late to make the bus connection. I rang up Oakwell Hall to explain the situation and after a rather fraught discussion the woman agreed to arrange with the security guard who went on duty at 4pm to leave the gates unlocked. It was absolutely pitch black when we got back to the hall and the walk through the unlit park was quite unnerving. There was no sign of the security guy but the gates were unlocked and we made our chastened way home.
We returned to Bradford a fortnight later for the second leg. I remember we were listening to 5 Live on the way in and the discussion was all about Maxine Carr , whether she would be released with an electronic tag and whether she'd try to publish a book about her experience ; neither in fact happened. We parked at a multi-storey in the centre of the city then caught the bus out to Bailiff Bridge. It was a murky but dry day. As the eastern side of Calderdale isn't blessed with great routes the next few miles to Shelf Hall ( the bulk of our walk ) followed the Calderdale Way. I hadn't done this stretch since the penultimate stage of that initial adventure nearly 25 years earlier ( see post 1 ) albeit walking in the opposite direction. It felt quite weird to be revisiting ground last covered with Mick Smithson and Steve Meehan when I was still at school. I have no memory of the last bit on to Clayton Heights at all.
I think we used the same car park for stage 3 on 29th February 2004. Our plan was to do the whole stretch covered by the second leaflet from Clayton Heights to the epicentre of Brontedom, Haworth, a distance of 7 miles according to the guide. For the most part it was very pleasant although Julie had a headache and we stopped to buy some painkillers in Thornton. It was a bright day although there was still some snow around on the high part near Thornton Moor Reservoir. Just beyond that we hit a part of the route already covered on a trouble-free Civic Trust walk a few years earlier so I was anticipating an easy finish.
However just as we got to Leeming Reservoir two dogs came bounding towards us a greyhound or whippet and a border collie, no owner in sight. The greyhound was calm and just seemed to want to hang round us but the collie was very aggressive , snarling and making repeated charges at me. I was shouting, half the time at it to get off home and half at Julie to keep going to the next gate as she had frozen mid-field . My biggest fear was that it would excite the other dog and we'd have two to contend with. After what seemed an eternity a man appeared from the direction of Rush Isles Farm some distance up the hill above the path. The dogs immediately obeyed him and retreated. He rather tactlessly asked "Has it bitten you ?" and immediately got a broadside of blue abuse from Julie. The Dingle seemed to take offence and came out with the old chestnut "This is the country. If you don't like it, f**k off back where you come from ". I wish I'd had the presence of mind to ask him how much tax-funded subsidy enabled him to live there but I just wanted to get away. I reported tthe incident to the police but they didn't seem very interested and Bradford's Countryside service said they hadn't had any other reports of trouble in that vicinity . However in the summer of 2005 I led a walk for LYPWG from Todmorden and it attracted a young couple who lived in Leeming . I mentioned our misadventure and the guy said it was a frequent occurence on that route; the farmer wanted to deter people from using that particular path. Let's hope he's been taken to task over it since.
Anyhow we plodded on into Oxenhope and calmed our nerves with a brew in the tea-rooms at the station. I remember joking with the waitress about still having time to propose to someone and she said that she'd had it with marriage after two previous mistakes. I managed to persuade Julie to finish off the walk into Haworth ( passing the house used in The Railway Children ) which had no further terrors.
And that was our last encounter with The Bronte Way for over 5 years. How much of the interlude was down to that damned dog ? Well it certainly dampened our enthusiasm for the project but I'd say it was more to do with Bolton Outdoor Group. As previously discused it started to revive soon after this episode and took up more of our time ( mine especially) for the next 2-3 years. Then in the summer of 2005 the former chairman Marcus independently submitted the Haworth-Wycoller stretch as a walk he'd lead for the B.O.G. programme. Julie didn't like the idea of B.O.G. members she wasn't that keen on becoming part of the experience and didn't go. I did because I still felt the necessity to turn up to more or less every event to make sure things went smoothly and we didn't mislay any of our hard-won new members. What it did of course was take away any impetus for recommencing the project with Julie for a long time. Julie and I still did walks together but there was always something more attractive or interesting to me than repeating the walk I'd done with Marcus et al.
Then of course we had Simon in 2007 , followed a year later by Julie badly injuring an arm at work so it wasn't until 20 November 2009 that we finally returned to Haworth. We had to both take a day's leave during the week so that we could leave Simon with the childminder and we were constrained by her drop-off and pick-up times meaning we'd have to do the walk at a fair pace. It was a lousy day. We parked in Keighley and took the bus to Haworth. A heavy shower greeted us as soon as we got off the bus and we sheltered for 10 minutes before setting off. It soon materialised that Julie was terrified of re-injuring her pinned-up arm and wanted to go at a snail's pace whenever the ground was slightly uneven so the very easy walk to Bronte Bridge took an eternity. By the time we got to Ponden Reservoir it was clear that we hadn't got a hope of reaching Wycoller in time, particularly with rougher terrain just ahead , so we diverted away towards Stanbury for a bus back to Keighley with the pleasant surprise that the first bus stop was much nearer than I expected.
It was nearly 18 months before we got our acts together to do the next stage on 30 March 2011 under the same strictures as before. This time we drove direct to Scar Top ( near Stanbury ) and started walking. The crossing over into Lancashire through the pleasantly rough Worth valley ( the concessionary bit ) is the scenic highlight of the walk and Julie had recovered her confidence. The weather was also very good though a bit cold when we reached Watersheddles Reservoir. The only scare was over-spending in the cafe at Wycoller and the pub at Laneshawbridge ( we had to extend the walk a mile to get the bus back to Keighley) which left us dangerously short of cash for the bus fare. We just about had enough but the bus took a very roundabout route and we missed the connection for a bus back to Scar Top. We had to take a bus to Haworth (after a visit to the cash machine) and then a taxi back to Scar Top.
The next stage took place on 19th October 2011 and was slightly easier to arrange because I had quit my job a few weeks earlier. We drove to Burnley and parked near the bus station but had just missed the bus to Laneshawbridge so we went for a coffee and I checked my bank balance to see if my severance payment had gone in - it had. The weather looked very unpromising in Burnley but it soon turned into a lovely day as we walked back through Wycoller and along the easy track below Boulsworth Hill. There was a brief scare where the Thursden road was closed to traffic but the workmen didn't mind us walking through the site. It was another stage where the ultimate destination was whatever time allowed and at Swinden we realised we'd have to break off and walk into Worsthorne for the bus back to Burnley. We'd just started along the very quiet road when a car stopped by me. It was my old friend from Littleborough Civic Trust, Joe Taylor. I had seen him only the day before at his wife's funeral and he was on the way back from returning a pair of glasses that a guest had left behind. Julie , who hadn't been able to go to the funeral , gave him a big hug and then he dropped us off back in Burnley.
We let last winter go by and by now Simon himself had become a good little walker on the Scrambler walks organised by the Chorley Ramblers' Group. We therefore took him along for the next stage on 18 march 2012. I knew we couldn't get to Gawthorpe Hall in one go particularly as we'd have to re-trace the road walk from Worsthorne that Joe had spared us but hoped Simon could manage the stretch down the Swinden valley to Bank Hall Park. He did so admirably in his wellies despite wetting his bum when he fell over in a muddy patch. He had enough gas left in the tank to walk the towpath back into Burnley thus facilitating another mini-drama when we met an Asian runaway teen asking us for directions. Julie phoned her whereabouts to the police - who were already looking for her - as soon as she was out of earshot.
The walk was finally completed yesterday but not before Simon threw us another curveball by having a little accident 5 minutes after assuring us that he didn't want to go behind a tree despite signs to the contrary. We foolishly took him at his word so he had an uncomfortable last couple of miles and we had to have our celebratory drink at Gawthorpe Hall outside the tea-room. The nice National Trust girl at the Hall took the photo of us you can see above ( must lose some weight ) and said she and her colleagues had been discussing doing the walk themselves.
Despite all the delays and mishaps we experienced it is a good trail with great variety and well-spaced points of interest.
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
13 The Thirlmere Way (2011)
Length : 130 miles
Started : October 2008
Finished : 12th June 2011
Companions : I haven't got a full record of all those attending the various walks but the following people were leaders of individual sections : Paul D'Alessandro , Mark Billington, Graham Webster, Colin Whittaker, Serena Armstrong, Chris Cooper, Helen Smith and Andy Roughley. Mark Billington completed the walk with me but did a couple of sections individually not with the Group.
Guide : The Thirlmere Way - Tim Cappelli (Sigma 1992)
This was my next LDP project with the Group. It was intended to be the follow-up to the Cumbria Coastal Way but actually started with two stages of the CCW still to go to take advantage of the current interest in LDPs in the Group. This time though I wanted it to be a shared endeavour with different members leading individual sections of the route.
You might recall from earlier posts that this was the one I was planning to do with the previous girlfriend back in 1994 so in a sense it was unfinished business for me.
The Way was the brainchild of a water engineer called Tim Capelli who devised a route in the early 90s roughly following the line of the underground aqueduct constructed in 1894 to take water from Thirlmere to the city of Manchester. The walk was never officially adopted by anyone the only waymarking being provided by the black iron gates indicating the line of the aqueduct below. The book suggested a sort of I-Spy game spotting all these gates but we never took that seriously.
I decided that I would lead the first couple of sections through Greater Manchester then hand over to others until we got to Kendal when I'd take over for the final legs. It was decided early on that we'd do the last two sections as a weekend away.
Day One in the book immediately presented a problem as it ended at Chequerbent after 14 miles, a place which seemed to be unserved by buses on a Sunday. Day Two was then an unappealing 18.5 miles long. My solution was to split Cappelli's two days into three so that the first walk was from Heaton Park ( the terminus of the aqueduct ) to the A575 on the edge of Atherton. This still meant a convoluted return to the start ( bus into Bolton, train to Manchester, tram to Heaton Park ) although some of the party were able to avoid this because two of them actually lived near the finish and had a spare car to go back to Heaton Park. There was also a potenial problem in the final stretch as a number of footpaths in the Hulton area had been closed / diverted to allow opencast mining and I visited the Bolton MBC Rights of Way office to get a new map detailing the variations.
It was quite a nice day for October and the route was better than expected using country parks to get through the urban landscape as much as possible and one or two areas had been improved since the book was published. When we skirted Little Hulton we were eyed up by some loitering chavs who evidently decided we were too many ( around 14 ) to tackle and so we came away unscathed. Blackleach Country Park made a pleasant lunch spot but the dispersal at the end meant we didn't have the usual pub stop bringing the day to an unsatisfactory close.
The bulk of the same people turned up for stage two six weeks later but the overall attendance was the best of the whole walk , ironically given it was the least appealing section. We started from Atherton station , walked back to the A575 then went as far as Horwich. The initial pleasant walk through Hulton Park was about as good as it got then it was all either road walking or drab farmland alongside the M61 until we got to Middlebrook. There I had to figure out the route through what was farmland when the book was written. This entailed some trial and error ; that, plus an unavoidable bit of marshland around a stile which gave everyone wet feet, killed off the idea of going a bit further towards Rivington for a more pleasant finish. We terminated as planned at Horwich then took a long bus ride back to Atherton with a further mile's walk back to the station from where we alighted. This time we did have a pub stop though.
The next stage was in March 2009 where I handed over the baton to Paul D'Alessandro. This was much more scenic running past Rivington , Anglezarke and Healey Nab then a stretch of canal walking near Wheelton before heading east to Abbey Village , somewhat off the route of the aqueduct but necessary ( at the time the book was written ) to give those doing the walk in one go an accommodation option. This was a long section done at a slow pace but the weather was superb for March. For this and most subsequent sections we did a car shuffle
That wasn't the case in July when Mark led Stage Four from Abbey Village to Longridge. In the morning it was opressively humid and the afternoon saw a thunderstorm and then prolonged downpour. There was a sharp contraction in the attendance with just 8 of us having done all the previous sections. We had an early drama when some guy approached us near the M65 crossing and asked Mark for help rescuing a cow which had fallen into the canal. He was directed to the nearest farm while we crossed the canal seeing no sign of any distressed bovines. I think everyone was wilting by the time we reached the outskirts of Preston near the Tickled Trout and relished the opportunity to replenish liquid stocks at the garage. Just as we got there a thunderstorm broke and we sheltered there for over half an hour witnessing all sorts of mad behaviour including a car full of kids who didn't look old enough to drive and a woman who was smoking while she filled up. One of our own party contributed to the mayhem by phoning for a taxi and abandoning the walk. Eventually Mark persuaded us to venture out into the rain and carry on. Most of the remaining route followed the Ribble Way before heading north to Longridge the rain eventually stopping as the walk ran into the early evening.
Cappelli's next stage was 17 miles long so was split into two, the first led by Graham Webster in November 2009 . I think Graham would admit that he'd lost interest in the project by then and was just keeping his promise. It was a horribly wet day and 6 of the 100 % ers opted out at this point leaving just Mark and myself as the completists. This stage ran from Longridge to Beacon Fell and although relatively short presented a considerable navigational challenge as it ran through featureless grass fields on paths that were invisible on the ground. Despite an obvious lack of enthusiasm Graham led it very well and we were finished before two.
Colin's section took place in March 2010. The weather was much better and the route had a bit more variety, passing through Calder Vale and Grizedale before ending at Dolphinholme. We also had a very pleasant coffee stop at Cobble Hey Farm.
The next stage was led by Serena in June , the 11 mile stretch from Dolphinholme to Caton taking us over the halfway mark. It was the highlight thus far with a moorland crossing over Grit Fell linking the Wyre valley to that of the Lune, all of it very pleasant.
The baton then passed to Chris Cooper for what Cappelli says is a 16-mile walk up the Lune valley from Caton to Kirkby Lonsdale. Having reccied it Chris thought it was nearer to 19 miles and toyed with the idea of splitting it in two but eventually decided to go for it in August. Mark , Colin and I were his only takers on a hot summer's day. We parked in Kirkby Lonsdale then caught the bus to Caton. It was a hard day's march with no opportunity for refreshment after the first mile. Most of it I had already done before on different walks and the linking bits were uninteresting but I did enjoy the finish through the limestone pastures into Kirkby Lonsdale and we had a decent meal at the Whoop Inn before we came home.
Helen Smith did 2010's final section from Kirkby Lonsdale to Kendal in October , a 14 mile stretch mainly alongside the Lancaster canal. Julie and I took the opportunity to have a weekend away in a converted barn at Burneside. The weather was pretty good with only a brief shower when we first hit the canal to worry about. Andy Roughley who hadn't been involved up to then now offered to do the next stage for me.
Before his walk ( from Kendal to Windermere ) came round in February this year I knew it clashed with a pop quiz so I asked to accompany him on his reccy a fortnight earlier instead. Mark also came with us although he did it with the Group as well. It was an excellent walk on a day that was fine but bitterly cold with the grass frozen beneath our feet. When Andy did it with the Group the weather was worse and one member had to drop out because, having stayed in Kendal overnight, his car had been vandalised.
I took charge again for the final two legs. Ten of us stayed at Fallbarrow Park in Bowness with three more staying at B & Bs nearby. As the two days' walks were advertised individually on the website four more came up for Saturday's walk from Windermere to Grasmere. It was a lovely day and we made good progress over Orrest Head, across the Troutbeck valley and over into Ambleside. I had decided to give people an hour there to choose their own lunch arrangements which seemed to work well, myself enjoying a drink and sandwich at the Old Bakery House with 4 other members. We had a minor mishap in the afternoon when one member who'd popped into a cake shop after setting off missed the turn off into Rydal Park but we steered him back for the easy saunter into Grasmere.
The following day began with a drive into Grasmere. No one new joined us so 11 started the final section in bright sunshine. There was a minor scare early on when a notice warned us that a bridge was down but we got across the beck without too much difficulty. At Grisedale Tarn I offered a diversion up Seat Sandal which 7 took up led by Mark. The rest of us found a lunch spot in the valley of Raise Beck and awaited the others' return. We had just about finished when the rain came and settled in for the rest of the day. Fortunately most of the remainder of the route was in the dense forestry plantations on the east side of Thirlmere so we stayed tolerably dry. When we re-encountered the A591 at Swirls the end was only a mile and a half away but one of the drivers had parked in a field at Grasmere which closed at 5pm and it was now 3.40pm. As they had to make sure they got the next bus the majority took the excuse to drop out at this point and walk the shorter distance to Thirlspot for the bus. So Mark and I had just 3 companions for the short scenic walk along the lakeshore to the official end point at Thirlmere Dam.
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