Wednesday, 18 September 2024

21 The Leeds-Liverpool Canal Towpath ( 2023 )




Length  : 127 miles

Started :   30 August 1992

Finished :  January 2023

Companions :   ( in  part )  Dave Morris, Andy Roughley, Phil Burton, Simon Farrell, Julie Farrell, Theo Lindley, Molly Williams, other  members  of  Hike  On  Lancashire  that  I've  forgotten  or  whose surnames  I  don't  know 

This  one  was  done  in  three distinct  stages. The  first we've  already  covered  as  the  section  from Leeds to  Gargrave is  also  the  route  of  the  Settle-Carlisle Way. 

Twenty  years  later,  I decided  to  do  the  rest  as  a  project for  Hike  On Lancashire ( then known as Lancashire Young Persons Walking Group). The  first  section was from Liverpool to Maghull.in  April 2012 We  parked at Maghull and  caught  the  train  into  Liverpool. The  turnout  was OK , a  dozen  or  so  but  there  had been  a  big  social event on  the  Friday  where  someone  said  they  didn't  fancy  it  and  a  negative  vibe towards the  event  had  snowballed from  there . The  walk  was  a  lot  longer  than I had  anticipated so perhaps  it  was  just  as  well. For  the  second  walk, from  Maghull to  Burscough, only  Phil   turned  up. Fortunately  the  weather  was  good. After  that  I  abandoned  the  idea  as a  Group  project.

The  third  and  final  stage  was  with  my  son  Simon  when  we  revived  the  Littleborough  Travelling Society in 2020. We  started  doing  it on  weekends  when  the  weather  looked  doubtful  so  we  could  shelter  under  bridges. Our  first  stage  was  to  start  from Wigan and  walk  in  the  direction of  Burscough  in  August  2020. We  got  caught  in  two  cloudbursts and  eventually  stopped  in  Gathurst and took  the  train back to Wigan. We  then  did  Gathurst to Parbold  and  Parbold  to  Burscough closing  the  western gap.

We  then  went  back  to Wigan and  walked in  the  opposite  direction  as  far  as  Wigan Top Lock  on  another  appalling  day before  taking  the  bus  back. The  next  stage  took  us from  there  to  Red  Rock  with  a  long  diversion  into  Haigh Park. We  walked  Red Rock  to  Adlington   over  the  Christmas period, 

We  resumed  in   February 2021  with a  walk from   Adlington to Chorley. Our  next  two  stages ended in Higher  Wheelton and  Feniscowles. We  walked  the  Feniscowles to  Blackburn section with  Julie  over  Easter. She  then  joined us for  the  next  section on  the  May  Day bank  holiday. We  had  intended  to  walk  to  Oswaldtwistle  but  the  weather  was  so  bad  we  abandoned  the  walk  at  Rishton. We picked  it  up  again in June with  a  walk from from Rishton  to  Clayton-le- Moors , a  walk  marred  by  Simon  losing  his  rucksack at  a  rest  stop. Our  next  section  took  us  to  Hapton  where  we  were  accompanied  by  Simon's  friend  Theo.  Next  stage  was  Hapton  to  Burnley  then  Burnley  to  Brierfield. On  the  next  stage,  Brierfield  to  Barrowford in  October . we  were  accompanied  by  Simon's  girlfriend Molly.

After  a  long  interval, we walked Barrowford  to  Barnoldswick in  June  2022 then  after  another  six  months  we  walked  Barnoldswick  to  Gargrave in  January  2023  which  completed the  whole towpath walk  for  me.


Monday, 7 August 2017

20 The Wainwrights ( 2017 )



Length  : Couldn't  begin  to  calculate

Started :  26  June  1980

Finished : 2  August  2017

Companions :   ( in  part )  Michael Smithson, Patrick  Brennan, Julie  Farrell, Sue Brindle, Anup  Mehta, Linda  Mehta, Mike  Morrison, Marcus  Shearn, Andy Greenhalgh, Alison Greenhalgh, Phil  Grogan, Mike  Bethell,  Jonathan Barnes, Jon  Bates, Mark Billington, Pat  Beck, Marie  O' Donnell, Trish  Calderbank, a  pot-head  called  Steve  whose  surname  escapes  me, Phil  Burton, Helen  Smith, Dave  Morris, Yvonne  Grime, Wendy  Guest, Ray  Pilling, Naydine  Hamner, Colin  Whittaker, Andy  Roughley, Ross  Bishop, Joe  Briscoe, Agata  Zarabska, Joanne  Scott, Serena  Armstrong, Pete  Hesketh, other  members  of  Hike  On  Lancashire  that  I've  forgotten  or  whose  surnames  I  don't  know , Simon  Farrell


This  was  a  personal  challenge  rather than  a  long  distance  trail. Bagging  all  the  Wainwrights  has  become  much  more  popular  in  the  last  two  decades  than  it  was  when  I  started  ticking  them  off  and  some  friends  have  overtaken  me  in  completing  it  while  others  are  still  engaged  in  it.

I  first  heard  of  Wainwright  during 1977  when  my  first  walking  companion  Michael  Clarke, a  dilettante  whose  passions  were  intense  but  short-lived , asked  me  if  I'd  ever  read  him, the  answer  being no. I  rectified  that  two  years  later when  one  of  his  successors , Michael  Smithson , bought  me  a copy  of  Pennine  Way  Companion  as  a  Christmas  present and  for  good  measure  I  bought   The  Eastern  Fells   over  that   same   Christmas  holiday  to  keep  it  company. I  was  familiar  with  one  or  two  of  the  places  described  through  two  youth  hostelling  holidays  in  the Lake  District  in  1977  and  1978  but  at  that  point  the Pennine  Way  was  of  more  interest.

The  following  summer,  Michael ( S ) and  I  were   planning to  walk  The  Dales  Way but  one   of  the  camping  barns  we  planned  to  utilise  was  fully  booked  and  there  was  no  alternative  accommodation. I  therefore  suggested  we  switch  to  the  Lakes  and do  some  hostelling  using  the  Wainwright  book  as  a  guide. This  was  accepted.  We were  still  at  school  but  my  mum  was  OK  about  me  going as  long  as  there  were three  of  us  , relying  on  that  old  advice  that one  should  stay with  an  injured  party, the other seek  help.  The  only   candidate  for  third  man  was  Patrick  Brennan, a  reliable friend  to  me  since  my  first  day  at school  but  he  and  Michael  had  only just  met  and hadn't  really  bonded.

I   won't  give  a  full  account  of  our  5-day adventure. Sufficeth  it  to  say  that  the  school  hostelling  holidays,  which  had  stuck  to  the  passe,  had  not  prepared  me  for  the  effort  required  to  surmount  a  Lakeland  peak. Add  to  that, carrying a  full  rucksack, the  day  being  hot  and  starting  three  miles  further  away  than  originally  intended because  we  had to  stay  at  Windermere  YHA rather  than  Ambleside  which  was full. We  struggled  up  Low  Pike  without  making  the  short  detour to  the summit  which  I naively  thought  would  be the  end of  our  labours  then  looked  aghast  at  the  climb  required  to  summit  High  Pike. By  the time  we  got  there, making  High  Pike  my  first  Wainwright, we  were  completely out   of  drink  and  had  four  more  summits  to  go before our descent to  Patterdale. As  we  neared  the  top  of  Dove  Crag  I  said  to  Michael  "I think  we've  bitten  off  more  than  we can  chew here"  and  suggested  we  took  the  escape  route , following a  fence  down to  the  top  of  Scandale Pass  and  descending  from  there. Both agreed  and  we  staggered  down  to  Brotherswater, reviving  ourselves  with  lemonade  from  the  campsite. The  next  day  we  planned  to  do  Helvellyn  via  Striding  Edge but  a  guy  staying  at  the  hostel  advised  us  against  it  and  we  decided  to  get  to  Grasmere via  Grisedale  a  route  I  had  done twice  before  with  the  school. When  we  got  to  the  point  where  the  path  branches  off  for  Helvellyn  Patrick  sprang  a  surprise   by  saying  he  was  going  to  do  Striding  Edge  after  all  and  we  agreed  to   meet  up  at  Grisedale  Tarn . Off  he  marched  with  only  a  cursory  glimpse  at  the  book. Three hours  later,  he  duly  joined  us  at  the  tarn  none  the  worse  for  his  experience. I'm  still  stunned that  he did  that  at  14  but, thinking  about it,  he was  a  member  of  a  sailing  club  from  an  early  age  so  he  din't  shy  from  physical  challenges. The  next  day's  route was  much  more  modest, climbing  Heron  Pike  from  Alcock  Tarn  but  we  still  managed  to  miss  the  summit  and  only  clocked  up  Nab  Scar  instead. I  recall  the  route  down  being  very  steep  and  eroded and  both  of  them  getting  annoyed  at how  gingerly  I  was  taking  it. We  then  concluded  the  adventure  with  a  fractious  night  at  High  Close YHA  where  a  school  party  was  also  staying. At  that  point  the  thought  of  doing  all  the  Wainwrights  hadn't  crossed  my  mind.

While  low  on  achievement, the  holiday  had  whetted  my  appetite  for  more  and  I  bought  The Far  Eastern  Fells  the  following  week. A  few weeks  later,  I  saw  a   used  set  of  the  books  in  Kelsall's  bookshop  in  Littleborough  for  £7  and  the  George the  proprietor  who  knew  me  agreed  to  break  up  the  set  and  let  me  have  the  ones  I  needed  for  a  fiver a  fantastic  purchase. I  could  therefore  begin  planning  our  next  holiday. Because  we'd  taken  the  advice  of  the  guy  at  Patterdale,  my  mum  relaxed  the  gang of  three  requirement  so  it  could  be  just  Michael  and  myself. I  planned  out  a  ten  night  adventure for  the  summer  of  1981 taking  in  many  of  the  big  ones  although  not  Scafell  Pike or  Skiddaw.

I've  written  elsewhere  about  this  particular  holiday. It  started  well  with us claiming  Low  Pike, High  Pike  again, Dove  Crag, Hart  Crag  and  Hartsop-above-How  ( because  Wainwright  warned  against  going  on  to  Fairfield  in  mist )  on  the  second  day. The  next  day  we  were  going  up  Helvellyn  having  the  advantage  of  starting  from  Helvellyn  YHA  ( because  Patterdale was  full ). The original  plan  was  to  go  up  Swirral  Edge  but  this time  it  was  Michael  who  decided  to  tackle  Striding  Edge  and  we  agreed  to  meet  up  on  the top.  I  had  no  real conception  of  what  it  was  going  to  be like. The  Edge  itself  was  OK  but  the rock staircase  that  follows  absolutely  terrified  me  and  at  least  twice  I  got  stuck  too  scared  to  go  on  or  go  back  down. At  one  point  I  decided  to  abandon  my  rucksack   and  ask  someone  to  retrieve  it but  thought  better  of  it. I  climbed  up  each  step  worrying  about  what  was  next  - the  mist  made  this much  worse - and  the  rush  of  relief    when   suddenly  confronted  by  a  cairn  and  a  flat  plateau - is  indescribable.  Michael  and  I  arrived  at  the  summit  pretty  simultaneously ; he  too  said  he'd never  go  that  way  again  and  we  headed  down  to  Grisedale  Tarn  and  on  to  Grasmere. I  was so  traumatised  I  neglected  to  pick  off  the  low-hanging  fruit  of  the  summits  of  Nethermost Pike  and  Dollywaggon  Pike , just  yards  off  the  path. The next  day  was  where  things  went  wrong. We  were  heading  for  Bowfell  and  Crinkle  Crags  but   on  the  road  to  Stool  End  Farm I  just  refused the  challenge  and  insisted  we  went  via  Blea  Tarn  and  Wrynose  Pass  to our  next  hostel  Duddon  YHA  ( long  since  closed ) i.e  on  the  road . It  was  a  combination  of  fatigue , timidity  about  possible  dogs at  the  farm  and  not  relishing  the  rainclouds  that  were  gathering. Mick  acquiesced  without  enthusiasm. The  next  day  I  had  a  better  excuse; the  Mountain  Goat  bus  service  that  linked  Wasdale  Head  and  Wastwater  YHA  ( which  is  at  the  wrong  end  of  the  lake  for  walkers )  wasn't  running  yet  and  made  the  planned  route  over  Slight  Side  and Scafell  unfeasible  so  we  went  over  Hard Knott  Pass  and  down  Eskdale, using  the  miniature  railway  in  part  to  our  destination. By the  next day  all  the  road  walking  had  given  me blisters  so  when  we  got  to  the  top  of  Black  Sail  Pass  I  let Michael  do  Pillar on  his  own  before  we  headed  down  to  Black  Sail  YHA. By  this  time  Michael  was  getting  a  bit  peed  off  with  me  and  we  set   off  for  Keswick  in  an  awkward  silence. I  managed  to  find  some  energy  to  do  Green  Gable   which  improved  things. It  turned out  to  be  our  last  peak  together   . The  next  day  we  went  over  Sticks  Pass  to  Helvellyn   YHA  and  Michael  declined  my  suggestion  he  might  like to  do  Raise  as  we  passed. The  following  day  it was  raining  and  I  vetoed  going  up  to  High  Street. We  spent  a  long  time  waiting  for  a  bus  that  wasn't  running  before  realising  we'd  have  to  walk  over  Kirkstone  Pass  to  get  to  Windermere  YHA. The last  two  days  were  meant  to  be relaxation  in  Ambleside  and  were  pretty  wet. We  spent  a  lot  of  time  in  the  library. So, six  peaks  over  ten  days. Not very  impressive, was  it ?

I  knew  I'd  let  him  down, not  lived  up  to  my  own  schedule  and  our  relationship  disintegrated over  the next  few months, greatly  exacerbated  by  the  fact  that  he  now  went  to  work  while  I  went  back  to  school  to  do  A  Levels. I  had  made  it  easier  for  him  to  toss  me  aside  by  formalising  our  relationship  into  a  little  club  with  some younger  lads  who  were  not  serious  walkers  so  all  he  had  to  do  was  resign  his  membership  which  he  did  that  November with  the  stinging  rebuke  that  he  hadn't  lost  interest  in  walking. For  the  rest  of  my  time  at  school I  had  no  contact  with  him   and  with  Patrick  having  drifted  away  into   motorbiking  I  had  no  potential  companion  for  a  further  assault  on  the  Lakes. There  were  options  with  the  school  but  I  wouldn't  countenance  that  after  running  my  own  show,  however  bad  a  fist  I'd  made  of  it.  So  I  just  sulked  and  brooded  instead  and  it  was  during  this  time that  I  developed  a  quasi-religious  adoration  of  Wainwright  and  elevated  Michael  into  the  pure  model walker .

Just  after  I'd  left  school in  1983,  I  bumped  into  a  mutual  friend Sean  who  said  Michael  wanted  to  meet  up  to  discuss  what to  do  with  club  funds. We  had  a  small  balance  at  the  bank  from  a  couple  of  raffles  but  it  was  negligible. It  was clearly an  excuse  to  effect  a  rapprochement. I  decided  to  seize  the  moment  and  pitch  the  idea  of  a weekend  in  Keswick  to  do  Scafell  Pike  and  he  went  for  it. Despite  his  earlier  words  and  my  idealisation  of  him ,  , he  hadn't  actually  done  much  walking  since  we  parted  ways; working  outdoors  as  a  council  gardener  he  preferred  other  pursuits at  the  weekend. We  therefore  arranged  to  do  the  17-mile  Marsden  Cuckoo  Walk  as  a  preliminary. When  the  day  came  round,  a  combination  of  nerves  and  the  scorching  heat  made  me physically  sick  and  we  had  to  turn  back  after  a few  miles. My  condition  was  absolutely  genuine  but  it  must  have rung  a  few  alarm  bells  with  him. We then  got  into  a  bit  of  an  argument  over  how much  I  was  going  to  pay  him  for  petrol. He now drove  a Land  Rover  and  I  accepted  that  it  was  heavier  on  petrol  than  other  cars but  he  was  still  over-estimating  the  distance  to  Keswick.

That  was  still  unresolved  when, with  a  week  to  go,  he  injured  his  ankle  at  work  and  couldn't  drive let  alone  walk. My  mum  never  believed  him  and  said  he'd  just  come  up  with  a  story  to  cry  off  from  the  trip. I  gave  him  the  benefit  of  the  doubt  but  the doubt  was  certainly  there. Faced  with  the  glum  prospect  of  cancelling  the  booking,  I  said  what  the  hell  and  decided  to  go  by  myself  using  public  transport  instead.

And  so,  one  very  hot  Saturday  morning  in  August  1983,  I  set  off  alone  for  Scafell  Pike  from  Seathwaite  via  Esk  Hause. Just  past  Stockley  Bridge,  I  made  a  bad  decision  to  seek  out  the "former  path  not  much  used  now"  on  Wainwright's  diagram  in  the  hope  it  would  be  easier. I  couldn't  find  it  and  ended  up  toiling  up  steep  grass  slopes. This  brought  on  the  same  sickness  and  I  had  to  turn  back  and  catch  the  bus  back  to  Keswick. By  the  time  I  got  there  I  was  feeling  better  and  decided to  switch  to  Skiddaw  instead. I  was  doing  OK  up  to  the  long  slog   up  Jenkin  Hill  then  I  was  struggling  again. While  I  stopped  halfway  up  , two  Liittleborough  guys  Alan  Luke  and Dave  Grayson  were  coming  down  and  I must  have  looked  pretty  ropey  because  they  advised  me  not  to  go  any  further.  However,  I  wasn't  going  home  without  at  least  one  peak  under  my  belt  so  I  diverted  to  Latrigg.  It  was  while  sitting  by  the  cairn  there,  drinking  in  the  superlative  view  that  I  made  the  decision. I  would  get  to  the  top  of  every  peak  in  the  books  and  that  would  prove  to  Michael  and  anyone  else  that  I  was  a  proper  walker. 

I  first  got  the  opportunity  to  add  to  my  paltry  total  the  following  summer when  I  stayed  at  Grasmere  Thorney  How YHA   for  three  nights, my  last  at  a  youth  hostel  until  the  new  century. By  watching  the  pennies,  I  had  saved enough  of  my  grant  to  afford  it. Again , I  was  alone. Michael  hadn't  really  kept  in  contact  and  though  I  initially  joined  the  University  YHA Society,  I  then  shunned  it . There  was  a  bit  of  an  issue  whether  they  would  return from  their  Sunday  walks  in  time  for  me  to  get  to  church  but  the  main  reason   I  have  to  admit  was  that  I  wanted  to  lead  rather  than  be  led. Therefore,  I'd  made  no  new  walking  friends  after  a  year  at  university, nothing  to  be proud  of. Despite  the  lonely  evenings  that  break  was  a  success  in  peak-bagging  terms  with  Loughrigg  Fell, Helm  Crag, Gibson  Knott, Calf  Crag, Heron  Pike, Great  Rigg  and   Fairfield  all  being  conquered. I'd  reached  more  peaks  in  three  days  of  walking  than  I  managed  in  ten, three  years  earlier.

Unfortunately  I  wasn't  so  flush  in  1985  and  certainly  not  in  1986  so  there  were  no  Lakes  breaks  in  those  years.  In  February  1987  though, I  started  work  and  the  project  was  back  on  the  rails. I  postponed  the trip  until  September  though in  the hope  that  cooler  weather  would  make  the  climbing  easier. I  stayed  in  a  B &  B  in  Ambleside  rather  than  a  hostel  and  conquered  Wansfell, Little  Hart  Crag, High  Hartsop  Dodd, Red  Screes, Silver  How, Blea  Rigg, Rossett  Pike  and  Allen  Crags. The  only  downside  was  that  I  made  the  mistake of  descending  to  valley  level  between  High  Hartsop  Dodd  and  Red  Screes   and  having  a  good  lunch  at  the  Brotherswater  Hotel. I  then  couldn't  face  the "treadmill"  ascent  of  Middle  Dodd, one  of  the  steepest  climbs  in  the  Lakes  leaving  it  an  awkward  "dangler"  for  years  afterwards.

I  didn't  get  up  to  the  Lakes  in  1988 . I  think  this  was  probably  due  to  college  commitments  and  the  football  fixtures  not  leaving  a  gap  although  the intervening  publication  of  Ex-Fellwanderer,  which  revealed  that  my  patron  saint certainly  had  feet  of  clay, may  have  been  an  influence  too.

By  1989  though  I  had  a  car   which  made  things  a  lot  easier  easier. I  therefore  booked  some  nights  at  a  B &  B  called  Barf  a  mile  out  of  Keswick  in   October. That  time  I  ticked  off  Glaramara, Sale  Fell, Ling  Fell. Graystones, Broom  Fell. Lord's  Seat, Barf, Fleetwith  Pike, Brandreth  and  Grey  Knotts . I  started  to  formulate  a rough  plan  where  I   would  take  the  lowest  fell  I'd  still  to  do   in  a book  and  then  devise  a  walk  that  would  take  in  that  one  and  the Wainwrights  that  were  closest  to  it. That  way  I'd  avoid  doing  all  the  attractive  ones  first  and  the  consequent  risk  of losing  my  resolve  to  complete  the  challenge. I  also  tried  to  choose  the  walks  so  that I'd  finish  all  the books  at  roughly  the  same  time.

In  1990,  I  chose  a  B  &  B  in  the  centre  of  Keswick  but  when  I  got  there the  proprietor  said   his  wife  had  just  left  him  and  he'd  switched  the  booking  to  another guest  house  just  round the  corner. That's  how  I  came  to  Fawsley  House  run  by  William  and  Myra  Pearson . They  were  a  lovely  couple from  the  Highlands  which  meant  I  could  only understand  about  50%  of  what  they  said   but  I  stayed  there  at  the  beginning  of  October  for  the  next  6 years  seeing  their  adopted  daughter  Carol  grow  up  and  often  meeting  the  same  guests  year  after  year. That  holiday  I  took  up  my  recent purchase  of  a  Gene  Pitney Greatest  Hits cassette and  that  became  part  of my  holiday  routine  too  so  hearing  one  now  is  always  likely  to  evoke  a fewllwalking  memory. I  got  into  an  evening  routine  of  going  to  The  Oddfellows  Arms  for  dinner  in  the  evenings  then  popping  across   to  the   Moot  Hall  for  the  evening  slideshows  ( often  the  same ones )   before  returning  to  the  guest  house. One  time  I  was  there.  there  was  a  lovely  Australian  girl called  Rebecca   staying, all  on  her  own, but  I  couldn't  summon  up  the  courage  to suggest  we  go  for  a  drink. That's  always  been  the  one that  got  away.

That first  stay  at  Fawsley  saw  the conquest  of  Bonscale  Pike, Arthur's Pike, Castle  Crag, High  Spy, Maiden  Moor , Catbells , Low  Fell, Fellbarrow and  Burnbank  Fell  . The  quartet   from  The  Northwestern  Fells   were   not  my  original  targets  that  day  but  having  driven  round  the  back  of  Skiddaw  to  do  some  of  the  Caldbeck  fells  I  found  I'd  forgotten  to  put  my  boots  in  the  car !  One  of  my  worst  experiences  was  descending  from  Low  Fell.  First,  I  completely  lost  the  supposedly  easy  way  down  suggested  by  Wainwright  and  ended up  desperately slithering  my  way  through  a  rough  quarry  then  what  was  an  open  fell  side  in  his  day  was  now  a  wooded  plantation  protected  by  a  high  barbed  wire  fence. It  took  me  a long  while  to  solve  the  problem  by  taking  a  sawn  off  log  from  a  nearby  pile  and  creating  my  own  very  precarious  stile  to  get  over  it. I  also  bought  The  Remote Fells  of  Lakeland  by  Graham  Dugdale. The  walks  in  there  covered  many  of  the  more  obscure  Wainwrights  and  after  the  Low  Fell  experience,  I  often  used  that  in  preference  to  the  actual  Wainwright  books  because  it  was  so  much  more  up  to  date.

The   1991  holiday  saw  one  of  my  biggest  hauls  bagging  Hallin  Fell, Steel  Knotts, Loadpot  HIll, Wether  Hill, Black  Fell, Holme  Fell, Great  Cockup, Meal  Fell, Great  Sca  Fell, Brae  Fell  , Longlands  Fell . Blake  Fell, Gavel  Fell  and  Hen  Comb.

The  1992  venture  was  eventful. The  haul  was  Beda  Fell, Angletarn  Pikes, Brock  Crags , Ullscarf, Rosthwaite  Fell .Bowscale  Fell, Bannerdale  Crags, Mungrisdale  Common,  and  Souther  Fell .  First , the   climb  up  from  Stonethwaite  to  Rosthwaite  Fell  was   really  difficult. The  route  was  horrendously  eroded  and  as  it  wasn't  a  right  of  way  no  remedial  work  was  being  done. There  were  few  places  where  you  could  get   a  trustworthy  purchase  and  with  a  deep  gill  just to  the  side  there  was   some  apprehension  about  where  I  might  end  up  if  I  slipped. What  got  me  up  was  seeing  an  OAP  struggling  up  - I  actually  asked  him  if  he  was  Harry  Griffin  as  he  looked  a  bit  like  the veteran  Guardian  correspondent  but  the  answer  was  no. By  making  my  hands  into  a  claw and  really  pressing  my  fingers  into  the  loose  earth  I  managed  to  get  up  to  the  easier  ground  above  but I'd  say  that  was  the  hardest  ascent  of  all. Ullscarf  a  couple  of  days  later  was  a different  story  again. I  didn't  mean  to  climb  it  that  day  at  all  and  was  going  for  Armboth  Fell  instead . However  the  path  there  forded  Launchy Gill  and  it  was  too  deep. There  was  no  way of  getting  across  without  getting  my  feet  wet.
I  decided  therefore  to  do  a  circuit  of  Launchy  Tarn  and  get   round  to  the  path  on  the  other  side  that  way. However  obstacles  in  the  way  kept  forcing   me  higher  into  the mist  until   I  was  totally  lost. I  wandered  around  trying  to  avoid  crags  and  steep  slopes  for  what  seemed  like  ages. I  was  close  to  the  point  of  using  my  whistle  to  make  a  distress  call  but  the  mist  suddenly  cleared  to  reveal  a  fence  ahead  and  I  knew  whereabouts I  was. When  I  got  up  to  the  fence I  could  actually   see  Ullscarf's   summit  cairn  so  I  bagged  that  as the  day's  peak  leaving  Armboth  for  another  time.

1993's  walks  were  more  sedate  and  bagged  Rest  Dodd, The  Nab, The  Knott, High  Tove, High  Seat, Bleaberry  Fell, Walla Crag, Seathwaite  Fell, Base  Brown, Lank  Rigg, Crag  Fell  and  Grike. The  main  incident  was  driving  off  after  the  walk  in  the  Western  fells  with  the  book  in  my  mapcase  on  top  of  the  car. I  left  details  with  the  police  but  no  one  ever  handed  it  in. Perhaps  it's  still  out  there  somewhere. The  other happier  incident was  coming  face  to  face  with  a  large  herd of  red  deer  on  The  Nab, the  sort  of  sight  that  stays  with  you.

1994's  haul  was  Great  Mell  Fell, Gowbarrow  Fell, Little Mell  Fell, Hartsop  Dodd, Caudale  Moor,  Lingmoor  Fell, Pike O' Blisco . Whinlatter, Rannerdale  Knotts  and  Mellbreak . That  was  notable  for  glorious  weather. When  I  got  back  to  work,  my  boss  said "Best  Indian  summer  for  years  and  you  book  a  week's   leave  you  lucky  bugger".

By  1995   I  had  realised   that  there  were   some  fells  which  couldn't  be  reached  from  Keswick  unless  I  were  willing  to  drive  over  the  notorious  Hard  Knott  Pass  which  I  wasn't. I  therefore  booked  a  few  days  in  a  B &  B  at  Eskdale  in  April  to  bag  some  of  them. The  weather  was very  favourable  and I  bagged  Whin  Rigg, Illgill  Head, Harter  Fell, Green  Crag, Hard  Knott, Buckbarrow, Seatallan  and  Middle  Fell.  There  was  a  price  to  pay  though  as  I damaged  my  knee. I  think  I  jarred   it  on  the  way  to  Whin  Rigg  when  jumping  over  a  patch  of  mud. I  struggled  to  get  up  to  my  room  in  the  loft  after that  but  still  managed  to  do  my walk  the  next  day  which  no  doubt made  it  worse. I  was  in  a  lot of  pain  for  two  to  three weeks  after  that, struggling  even  to  get  from  Victoria  Station  to  the  office  where  I  worked  on  Deansgate.

It  had  cleared  up  by  October  and  I  was  able  to  bag  Glenridding  Dodd, Place Fell, Armboth  Fell, Binsey, Dodd, Causey  Pike, Scar  Crags, Outerside  and  Barrow , a  rather  bitty  haul  and  the  weather  was  pretty  lousy  too.  The  highlight  of  that  trip  was  actually  meeting  a nice  girl  for  lunch  in  Earby  on  the  way  up  to  the  Lakes.

In  March  1996  I  stayed  in  Coniston  but  my  efforts  were  hampered  by  snow  and  ice  on  the  fells. Without  ice  axe  and  crampons, I  had  to  retreat  from  some  routes  and  only  bagged  Sallows, Sour  Howes, Wetherlam  and  Cold  Pike. Consolation  came  from  another  date  with  the  same  girl,this  time on  the  way  back.

September  1996  drew  in  Arnison  Crag, Birks, St  Sunday  Crag, Rampsgill  Head, Kidsty  Pike,  High  Raise, High  Rigg, Raven  Crag, Carrock  Fell  and  High  Pike.  That  was  the  end  of  the  Fawsley  era  for  reasons  explained  below. I  did  stay  there  again  a  few  years  later  but  the  Pearsons  had  moved  on  to  Gretna  by  then  and it  wasn't  the  same

In  March  1997  I  returned  to  Coniston  but  this  time  round  I  had  company, my  fiance  Julie. Wainwright-bagging  was  not  the  main  purpose  of  the  trip  and  the  weather  was  awful  but  we  did  do  Great  Carrs, Grange  Crag  and  Great  Crag . The  descent  from  the  latter  was  very  steep  and  slippery  , unexpected  in  a  generally  benign  area. In  the  summer  we knocked off  Ard  Crags  and  Knott  Rigg  on  a  day  trip.

With  a  wedding  looming  the  usual  autumn  visit  to  Keswick  was  jettisoned  and  due  to  mortgage tyranny  we  only visited  the  Lakes  once  in  1998  , ticking  off  Troutbeck  Tongue  where  Julie  lost  an  earring.

In  1999  my  mum  offered  to  pay  for  a  break in  Keswick  if  we'd  keep  her  company  which  of  course  we  accepted. That  yielded  Raise  and  Haystacks  with  Julie  and  Bakestall, Grey  Friar  and  Swirl  How  on  my  own.  

We  repeated  the  arrangement  in  2000  which  yielded  Stone  Arthur, Seat  Sandal , Dollywggon  Pike , Eagle  Crag, Sergeant's  Crag, Great  Borne  and  Starling  Dodd. The  Great  Borne  route  was  notable  for  the flurry  of  threatening  notices  erected  by  mad  farmer  Thomas  Ireland  of  Whins  Farm  declaring  there  were  no  Wainwright  routes  across  his  land. I  opted  for  cutting  across   from  the  top  of  Floutern  Pass  which  involved  vaulting  his  barbed  wire  fence. Nuts  to you  Mr  Ireland. We  were  there  during  the  fuel  crisis  but  fortunately  my  car  was  still  running  on  four star  - remember  that  ? - which  didn't  run  out.

Unfortunately  Julie  was  too  ill  to  go  a  third  time  in  2001 and  the  stay had  to  be  cancelled. I did  however  claim  Dow  Crag  and  Coniston  Old  Man  with  the  group  we  had  recently  joined, Bolton  Outdoor  Group, just  after  the  Lakes  paths  were  re-opened   following  the  foot-and-mouth  epidemic.

In  March  2002  Julie and I  had  a  short  break  in  Morecambe  and  claimed  Gray  Crag  on  a  day  trip, Julie  taking  it  as  evidence  that  she  had  fully  recovered. In  June  we  went  on  a  Buttermere  weekend  arranged  by  other members  of  B.O.G.  and  I  bagged  High  Crag  and  High  Stile . This  was  one  of  the  more  intimidating  routes  so  I  was  glad  to  do  it  with  company. The  only  snag  was  the  leader  Andy  losing  his  nerve  in  the  mist  and  descending  to  Bleaberry  Tarn  instead  of  going  on  to  Red  Pike, making  that  another  awkward  "dangler". A  couple  of  months  later, we  did  another  B.O.G. weekend  in  Keswick  and  claimed  Grisedale  Pike  and  Hopegill  Head  together.

Over  the next  few  years  I  claimed  a  number  on  weekends  or  day  trips  either  with  B.O.G. or  just  Julie. These  were  Steel  Fell ( on  a  very  wet  day ) Dale  Head, Robinson, Ullock  Pike, Carl  Side, Long  Side, Harter  Fell, Kentmere  Pike, Shipman  Knotts  and  Brim  Fell.  By  2006  I  had  finally  met  someone  else who  was  intent  on  doing  them  all, Mark  Billington  of   Lancashire  Young  Person's  Walking  Group  and  I  started  occasionally  walking  with  him  to  claim  some, the  first  being  Sergeant  Man  and  Tarn  Crag  in  2006. The  last  ones  with  B.O.G.  were  Sheffield  Pike  and  Hart  Side  later  that  year.

In  March  2007  Julie  became  pregnant  and  I  claimed  Grey  Crag  and  Tarn  Crag  later  that  year  correctly  guessing  that  I  would  then  be  indisposed  for  a  while. 2008  and  2009  were  blank  years, My next conquests  were  Selside  Pike  and  Branstree  with  Mark  on  an  awful  day  in  March  2010. That  May  we  had  a short  break  at  Drigg  and  I managed  to  bag  Yewbarrow, Red Pike  and  Scoat  Fell .  I  finally  ticked  off  Middle  Dodd  in  July  with  Mark  then  a  couple  of  weeks  later  he  led  a  group  walk  to  Scafell  Pike,  which  also  encompassed   Lingmell  and  Great  End.  I  came  off  that  walk  with  a great  feeling of  sadness; ticking  off  the   Big  One  brought  home  to  me  that  I  was  now likely  to  complete  the  project . I  claimed Great  Calva  and  Knott  on  a  solo  walk  later  in  the  year.

2011  was  a  blank  because I  arranged   three  walking weekends  elsewhere  for  the  L.Y.P.W.G  then  in  2012  Julie  booked  the  first  of  our  annual breaks  in  Keswck  where  I  was  to  divide  my  time  equally  between  walking  and  taking  Simon  her  and  out. 2012  saw  Whiteless  Pike, Wandope, Eel  Crag, Sail , Great  Gable  and  Kirk  Fell   conquered. The  passage  between   the  latter  two  was  one  of  the  worst  bits  of  walking  in  the  whole  project; in  fact  a  large  part  of  it  was  done shuffling down  on  my  behind.

The  July  2013  break  which  had  scorching  weather   saw  the  conquests  of  Birkhouse  Moor, Catstycam ( those  two  on  a  walk  with  L.Y.P.W.G ), Clough  Head, Great  Dodd, Watson's  Dodd, Stybarrow  Dodd, Loft  Crag, Pike  O' Stickle,  Harrison  Stickle ,Pavey  Ark, Thunacar  Knott  and  High  Raise.  Arriving  at    the  latter  summit  meant  that  The  Central  Fells    became  the  first  of  the  books  to  be  completed. The  other  incident  of  note was  that  just  below  the  summit   of  Clough  Head,   I  caught  sight  of  a  girl  that  appeared to  be  in  distress, collapsed  on  all  fours. As  I  got  closer  I  realised  there  was actually  a  bloke  beneath  her  and  she  was  in  that  position  the  better  to  give  him  a blow  job. I  hurried on ; perhaps  I should  have  checked  whether she knew  him  or  the  service was  available  to any  passing  rambler.    

In  2014  I  claimed  Blencathra  ( remarkably  easy ), Crinkle  Crags, High  Street, Mardale Ill  Bell  and  Thornthwaite  Crags . Crinkle  Crags  became  an ordeal because  I  opted  for the company  of  a  couple  in  the  mist  rather  than  following  Wainwright  and  they  led  me  astray  down  a  scrambly  route  towards  Eskdale  instead  of  on  to  Bowfell. By  the time the  error  was  realised, I  was  too  exhausted  to  go  on  to  Bowfell  and left  it  to  the  following  year.

In  2015  I  claimed  the  last  two  "danglers", Red Pike  and  Hindscarth  and  also  Bowfell  and  Esk  Pike.  Last  year  saw  the  conquest  of   Whiteside  and  Grasmoor  ( a  wet  and  rough  walk  on  which  I  was very  glad  of the  company  of  L.Y.P. W.G.  members ), Yoke, Ill  Bell, Froswick, Caw Fell  and  Haycock. Those  walks  meant  The  North-Western  Fells  and  The  Far  Eastern  Fells   and  left  one  more  walk  from  each  of  the  remaining  books  to  complete  the  challenge.

When  Julie  decided  to  book  a  fortnight  this  year  I  knew  that  , God  willing , the  end  was  in  clear  view. I  booked  a couple  of  nights  away in  Eskdale  to  do  the remaining ones  on  the  Western  side. I  did  Pillar  and  Steeple  on  the  first  day, the  only  time  the  weather  was  good then  Slight  Side  and  Scafell , a  nervy  walk  in  thick  mist  although oddly  enough  there  were  a  couple  about  ten  minutes    behind  me  who  were doing  exactly  the  same  walk  and  retrieved  the sit  mat I'd  carelessly left  behind  on  the summit. Those  were  tough  walks  to  do  on  successive  days  but  I  had  the  chance  to  recuperate  before  the  next  one ( with  L.Y.P.W.G  though  now re-christened  Hike  On  Lancashire )  on  the  second  Sunday. That  yielded  White  Side  and  Nethermost  Pike.

That  left  one  more  walk  and Julie  and  my  son  Simon  accompanied  me. We  drove  to  the car  park  at  the  top  of  Gale  Road  behind  Latrigg  and  set  off  for  Skiddaw  in  indifferent  weather. When  the  time  came  for  me  to  branch  off  for Lonscale  Fell,  Julie  didn't  want me  to  do  it  while  she  was  still  unfamiliar  with  the  route  so  I  agreed to  bag  it  on  the  way  down. That  would  make Lonscale  Fell  my  final  peak  which  wasn't  my  original  intention  but  that's  marriage  isn't  it  ?  By  the  time  we  got  on  to  Skiddaw  it  was  raining  heavily  and  blowing  a  gale  but  they  both  made  it  to  the  top  with  me. As  we  left  the  top  plateau  the  weather  abated  but  Julie  and  Simon  let  me  do  the  detour  to  Skiddaw  Little Man  on  my own. That  had  long  been  my  choice  to  finish   on  because  Wainwright  nominates  it  as  the best  viewpoint  in  Lakeland but  as  it  happened  it  was  still  misty  so  that  didn't  really  matter. I  caught up  with  Julie  and  Simon  and  asked  if  they  wanted  to  come  with  me  to  my  last  peak  , an  easy  stroll  alongside  a  fence,  but  they  preferred  to  plod  on  down the  main  path  back  to  the  car.  Lonscale  Fell  is  far  from  the  most charismatic  of  summits, a  small  cairn  on  a  patch  of  damp  moorland,  but  there  was  a  nice  symmetry  in  finishing  there  as  it's  almost  directly  above  Latrigg  where  I  first  embraced the  challenge  34  years  earlier.




















Saturday, 27 June 2015

19 The Burnley Way ( 2015 )





Length  : 40  miles

Started :  27  September  2014

Finished : 27  June  2015

Companions : ( in  part ) Andy  Daly, Mark  Woodall, Pete  Hesketh, Mark  Roper, Catherine  Seville, Pamela  Banks, Suzanne  Ashton, Richard  Lees, Al  Pilkington, Steve  Briggs, Wendy Guest, Dave  Morris, Joanne  Stott,  Paul  Dalessandro, Fiona  Corcoran, others  I've  forgotten  or  whose  surnames  I  don't  know.

Guide : The  Burnley  Way  leaflets  produced  by  Burnley  Borough  Council

With  clocking  up  10  years  in  the  LYPWG  and  not  wanting  to  do  repeats  it's  become  progressively  harder  to  come  up  with  new  ideas  for  walks. I  chose  to  start  doing  The  Burnley  Way  because  it's  close  to  some  members'  homes ,  has  good  transport  links  and  would  save  me  having  to  come  up  with  anything  else  at  the  input  meetings  for  a  year. It  also  made  sense  because   I'd  walked  stretches  of  it  which  were  also  part  of  The  Bronte  Way ,  Witches  Way  and  ( just  about  )  the  Pendle  Way  so  I  would  be  completing  the  network  in  this  part  of  the  world.

We  started  it  on  a  Saturday  afternoon  with  the  short   5  mile  stretch  from  Burnley  town  centre  to  Queen  Street  Mill  museum  in  Briercliffe.  Our starting  point  was  the  mill  car  park   and  I  put  a  suggestion  in  the  ad  for  the  walk  that  we  should  meet  early  for  coffee  there. Several  members  took  me  up  on  it  but  I  set  off  too  late  and  didn't  get  there  on  time  which  made  for  a  good  start  !  We  caught  the  bus  into  Burnley  and  walked  back  from  there.  The  weather  looked  very  threatening  when  we  were  at  the  mill  but  it  actually  turned  out  nice  and  we  had  a  very  pleasant  afternoon.

Stage  two  from  Queen  Street  to  Hurstwood   ( not  far  away  as  the  crow  flies  but  the  route  takes  you  out  to  the  county  border  and  back  , making  it  8  and  a  half   miles  )  took  place  in  December  and  the  weather  was  unpromising  from  the  start. We  parked  in  Burnley  and  caught  the  bus  back  to  Queen  Street  Mill . It's  the  most  scenic  section  despite  an  uphill  mile  on  tarmac  with  the  crossing  of  the  Thursden  Valley  and   walking  above  Widdop  Reservoir  the  highlights. Lunch  was  quick  and  cheeerless  with  some  trees  providing  meagre  shelter  at  Thursden  but  when  we  were  walking  it  wasn't  too  unpleasant  , being  misty  and  drizzly  rather  than  soaking  wet   and   rather  windy  on  the  tops. When  we  got  to  Hurstwood  we  had  to  walk  an  extra  half  mile  to  Worsthorne  to  catch  the  bus  back  into  Burnley.  We  had  a  drink  in  the  Fighting  Cocks  , a  dark  and  cheerless  pub  , while  we  were  waiting  for  it.

Joanne  offered  to  lead  the  next  section  from  Hurstwood  to  Towneley  Park  via  Portsmouth  and  Thieveley  Pike  in  March  . It's  the  longest  and  hardest  section, 11.5  miles  long  with  a  descent  to  Portsmouth  then  steep  re-ascent  onto  Heald  Moor  over  tough  ground. We  met  in  Towneley  Park  then  took  some  cars  to  Hurstwood. It  was  overcast  but  fine  in  the  morning  then  just  as  we  were  cresting  Heald  Moor  we  were  hit  by  a  blizzard  with  horizontal  snow  blasting  us   throughout  the  traverse  of  the  ridge  to  Thieveley  Pike. We  didn't  linger  at  the  top  but  started  the  steep  descent  back  to  vally  level  which  was  slippery  but  safe. Even  before  we  got  to  valley  level  again  the  storm  had  abated  and  there  was  no  clue  as  to  how  bad  things  had  been  just  half  an  hour  earlier. The  stretch  back  to  Towneley  was  on  easy  ground  but  seemed  endless. I  was  shattered  and   assumed  it  was  because  I  hadn't  done  much  walking  since  the  previous  section  but  others  said  they  were  exhausted  too. We  went  for what  should  have  been  a  reviving  drink  at  the  Kettle  Drum  in  Mereclough  though  I  had  what  must  have  been  one  of  the  worst  cups  of  coffee  of  my  life  there  and  Wendy  confirmed  that  hers  was  just  as  bad.

I  led  section  4  in  May  taking  us  from  Towneley  Park  to  Hapton,  another  moorland  crossing  but  not  as  long  or  tough.  I  picked  up  Paul  in  Ramsbottom  .We  started  from  the  town  centre  and  walked  a  mile  through  the  park  to  get  to  where  we'd  left  off. After  a  mix-up  around  the  Hall  itself  where  the  route isn't   clearly  signed   the  walk  went  smoothly  in  decent  weather. We  were  going  to  get  the  train  back  but  had  just  missed  one  so  we  caught  the  bus  instead.

Joanne  agreed  to  lead  the  final  section  from  Hapton  back  to  Burnley  via  Padiham   but  I  was  going  to  be  on  holiday  when  it  came  round  on  the  programme  so  we  arranged  that  I' d  accompany  her  on  her  "reccie"  of  the  route   so  I  could  complete  it   beforehand. It  was  a  warm  and  sunny  day. Scenically  it  was  the  weakest  section  though  the  views  towards  Pendle  and  Bowland  at  the  start  were  good  and  there  was  some  nice  riverside  walking  in  the  Calder  valley.  Lack  of  waymarks  caused  the  odd  stop  for  consultation  but  otherwise  it  was  quite  easy   and  we  completed  the  walk  around  1.30  pm.

It  is  a  good  walk  which  makes  the  most  of  the  town's   assets  and  its  surrounding  countryside  and  well  worth  doing.

    




Monday, 13 October 2014

18 The Cumbria Way (2014)




Length  : 70  miles

Started :  7  July  2013

Finished : 13 October  2014

Companions :  ( in full ) Dave Morris, Wendy  Guest ;  ( in part )  Helen Smith, Serena  Armstrong , Steve  Briggs ( these  first  three  all  completed  the  trail  through  doing  catch-up  walks ) ,  Pete  Hesketh,  Elizabeth  Currid, Andy  Roughley, Anthony  Barlow, Jane  Harrison, Ross  Bishop, Chris Hughes, Steve  Taylor, Rachel  Glascott, Allie  Fitzsimmons, Mark Woodall

Guide : The  Cumbria  Way - John Trevelyan ( Dalesman )

There  are  a  number  of  interlocking  stories  here. One was  simply  to  find  another  excuse  to  revisit  one  of  the  Group's  favourite  places  to  stay, Green View  Lodges  at  Welton ; the  Cumbria  Way  passes  within  a  mile  of  the  entrance Another  was  that  , with  my  fiftieth  birthday  approaching  rapidly  I   originally  intended to  largely  retire  from  LYPWG  and  this  seemed  a  fitting  finale  revisiting  some  scenes  of  earlier  triumphs. And  perhaps  somewhere at  the  back  of  my  mind  was  the  thought  that  it  was  unfinished  business  from  the  Michael  Smithson  era - I  bought  the  guide  in  either  Ambleside  or  Windermere  back  in  July  1981  at  the  end  of  our  great  hostelling  adventure.

We  did  the  first  section  from  Ulverston  to  Coniston  amid  blazing  sunshine. Steve  B  and  I  had  stayed  in  Ulverston  overnight  in  order  to  plant  a  car  at  Coniston  but  the  numbers  on  the  day  meant  we  still  had  to  do  a  shuffle at  the  start. This  in  turn  meant  we  had  to  keep  up  a  good  pace  in  order  to  finish  at  a  reasonable  time  and  that  was  a  tough  proposition  in  those  temperatures. On  top  of  that  there  was  nowhere  until  very  close  to  the  end  where  more  liquid  could  be  purchased. Wendy  and  I  had  a  paddle  in  Beacon  Tarn  but  that  was  the  only  relief  to  be  had  until  arrival  at  the  Monk  Conston  campsite  where  ice  lollies  were  devoured  at  a  very  fast  rate  while  news  of  Andy  Murray's  triumph  came  through  from  the  back  of  the  shop. I  couldn't  eat  anything  else  until  hours  afterwards.

The  next  section  from  Coniston  to  Great  Langdale  was  done  in  October  2013. Dave, Pete  and  I  stayed  at  the  independent  hostel  in  Ambleside  on  the  Saturday  night. The  accommodation  was  quite  basic. I  had  to  roll  myself  into  the  lower  bunk  because  there  was  so  little  clearance; good  preparation  for  a  coffin  I'd  have  thought.  Dave  and  I  enjoyed  a  good  curry  in  Ambleside  when  the  rain  wasn't  quite  bucketing  as  hard  as  before. On  the  morning  it  was  still  raining  hard  and  Pete  decided  to  give  it  a  miss  although  he  ferried  Dave  and  I  from  Great  Langdale  to  Coniston  which  made  another  shuffle  unnecessary. Apart  from  a  brief  spell  at  the  very  beginning  and  end  of  the  walk  it  rained  all  day  which  did  dampen  the  spirits  a  bit  although  it  made  Skelwith  Force  more  spectacular.

The  awkward  nature  of  the  next  section , Great  Langdale  to  Keswick  in  terms  of  transport  links  made  it  necessary  to  split  it  into  two  walks  over  a  weekend  in  April  this  year. I  let  people  sort  out  their  own  accommodation  in  Keswick. Julie found  us  a  place  to  stay  about  a  mile  out  of  the  centre. The  weather  was  even  worse  than  on  the  previous  section but  surprisingly  we  were  joined  by  two  new  girls  at  Keswick. I  don't  think  I'd  recognise  either  of  them  again  as  we  were  all  huddled  up  in  waterproofs  all  day. Although  scenically  lovely  both  walks  were  a  joyless  trudge  and  as  we  sat  dripping  in  a  Keswick  tea  shop  at  the  end  we  hoped  for  better  on  the  final  weekend.

Colin, the  proprietor  at  Green View  gave  us  a  generous  discount  for  previous  business  which  meant  it  worked  out  at  £46  per  person  for  three  nights, ridicuously  good  value. The  only  downside  was  that  the  pub  next  door  was  now  closed. The  rain  hammering  on  the  roof  when  I  woke  up  on  Saturday  didn't  bode  well  but  apart  from  two  brief  showers  we  had  perfect  autumn  weather  for  our  final  two  stages.

On  Saturday  we  walked  from  Keswick  to  Caldbeck  using  the  bus  service. It's  a  long  stretch  on  mainly  hard  tracks  and  the  toughest  bit  comes  just  as  your  energy  levels  are  starting  to  flag. I  led  it  too  fast  to  try  and ( fruitlessly )  suit  one  member  of  the  party who  had  to  get  back   and  managed  to  give  myself  sore  knees  and  blisters  for  the  following  day. Caldbeck  to  Carlisle  is  also  a  long  stretch  but  mostly  very  easy  or  should  have  been; in  my  case  it  was  a  rather  painful  ordeal  that  I  was  relieved  to  finish. Then  it  was  a  quick  dip  in  the  hot  tub , a  celebratory  glass  of  Buck's  Fizz  then  off  home  with  school  in  the  morning  for  Simon.

Because  of  the  weather  and  self-inflicted  wounds  this  won't  be  the  most  fondly  remembered  of  my  trails  but  it  is  an  excellent  route  from  start  to  finish  

Thursday, 14 August 2014

17 The Witches' Way ( 2014 )




Length: 30  miles

Date  started  :  27  June  2012

Date  completed : 13  August  2014

Companions : Julie  Farrell ; ( in  part )  Simon  Farrell

Guide  :  Witches' Way   - David  Johnson  and  Jim  Ashton ( Dalesman  Books  1984 )

This  was  Julie  and  Is'  next  project  which  we  completed   a  bit  faster  than  the  Bronte  Way  but  given  the  length  we  were  still  a  bit  laggardly.

The  Witches' Way  is  the  most  obscure  route  to  feature  here. I  bought the  guide  in 1988 , four  years  after  it  was  first  published  and  I'm  guessing  it  went  out  of  print  not  long  afterwards. I've  never  heard  anyone  mention  it  in  the  last  25  years. I  chose  it  because  it  wasn't  too  far  away  and  passed  through  a  few  areas  of  Lancashire  that  were  unfamiliar  to  me.

The  walk  was  devised  by  two  long  distance  walking  enthusiasts  who  haven't   volunteered  any  personal  information  apart  from  their  home  addresses  ( Bury  and  London )  to  put  a  long  distance  trail  in  upland  Lancashire. I  think  they  meant  "long  distance"  in  terms  of  a  single  day's  hike, which  would  certainly  be  a  challenge  on  this  route !

The  walk  runs  from  Rawtenstall  to  Slaidburn  and  visits  the  summit  of  Pendle  Hill ( the  third  route  on  here  to  do  so ). The  story  of  the  Pendle  Witches  provides  an  overarching  theme  although  neither  starting  nor  end  point  feature  in  it  and  places  that  do  - Sabden, Newchurch  and  Barley  for  example - are  by-passed. It's  quite  a  tough  little  route  which  often  eschews  easier  alternatives  close  at  hand.

One  other  comment  on  the  route  should  be  made. It  was  quite  difficult  to  follow  in  parts  ( details  below )  and  we'd  have  come  unstuck  without  the  Forest  of  Bowland  and  Ribblesdale  OS  map. Quite  a  lot  had  changed  on  the  ground  and  it's  brought  home  to  me  that  I  can't  now  use  any  of  the  guides  I  acquired  in  the  seventies  and  eighties  by  themselves  ( except  of  course  my  beloved  Wainwrights );  if  I'm  still  going  to  use  them  they'll  need  matching  with  a  recent  map  beforehand.

We  started  it  in  June  2012  on  a  weekday  and  "against  the  clock"  in  terms  of  getting  back  to  pick  Simon  up  from  his  childminder  at  the  agreed  time. We  parked  in  Rawtenstall  and  walked  to  Hapton. I'd  done  most  of  it  before  and  it  was  fairly  straightforward  but  had  a  sting  in  the  tail.  On  the  very  last  stretch  into  Hapton  what  used  to  be  ( according  to  the  book ) a  simple  stroll  along  a  hedge  was  now  an  enclosed  path  between  two  wire  fences  and  it  was  completely  overgrown. The  friendly  guy  at  nearby  Sellars  Fold  said  no  one  had  tried  to  walk  it  for  years. With  some  misgivings  we  gave  it  a  go  but  halfway  down  a  substantial   tree  had  fallen  across  it  without  bringing  the  sturdy  fences  down. It  was  completely  impassable  and  we  had  to  retreat  back  to  Sellars  Fold  and  take  an  alternative  path. Once  at  the  finishing  point  we  needed  to  get  to Hapton  station  for  a  train  back  to  Burnley. The  path  we  took  ( not  part  of  the  route )  was  an  adventure  too ; although  a  very  scenic  valley  route  it  was  flooded  in  parts  and  we  finished  the  walk  with  wet  feet. Our  reward  was  a  free  train  ride  to  Burnley  as  no  one  came  to  sell us  tickets  and  we caught  the  bus  back  to  Rawtenstall.

The  next  section  from  Hapton  to  Read  was  done  in  July. The  weather  was  fine  and  it  was  a  good  walk  apart  from  one  short  stretch  behind  the  industrial  estate  at  Altham  Bridge  ( built  since  the  book )  where  the  path  was  very  overgrown and  boggy. Beyond  that  the  stretch  alongside  the  river  Calder  was  spoiled  by  the  litter  presumably  left  by  picnickers  or  illicit  teenage  drinkers. We  had  a  wait  for  the  bus  to  Burnley  at  Read  ; Julie  asked  an  old  guy  where  it  stopped  and  he  said  "Oh  aye  we've  got  buses  here"  and  proceeded  to  give  her  an  idiot's  guide  to  village  life. We  had  a  bite  to  eat  at  Burnley's  Witherspoon's  then   caught  the  bus  back  to  Hapton  where  we'd  parked.

We  didn't  get  round  to  the  next  stage  until  the  Easter  Holidays  in  2013  when  we  took  Simon  along  for  the  section  between  Read  ( where  we  parked )  and  Nick  o  Pendle. It  was  a  straightforward  and  enjoyable  section  although  Simon  didn't  enjoy  the  biting  wind  in  our  faces  on  the  high section  along  Wiswell  Moor. From  Nick  o' Pendle  we  dropped  down  to  Sabden  for  the  bus and  Simon  enjoyed  himself  in  the  play park  there.

Julie  and  I  did  the  next  section  in  July  during  Simon's  last  week  at  school  on  a  very  hot  day. We  parked  at  Clitheroe  and  caught  the  bus  to  Sabden.  The  uphill  walk  back  to  Nick  o  Pendle  was  strength-sapping  in  the  heat. I  didn't  tell  Julie  we  were  going  up  Pendle  Hill  to  see  if  she  could  work  it  out  for  herself. The  route  chosen  by  the  authors  was  a  strange  one , leaving  the  fairly  easy  main  path  from  the  Nick  and  striking  out   for  the  huge  cairn  on  Mearley  Moor  ( Pendle's  western  ridge ) .  The  approach  from  the  cairn  to  the  summit  is  a  good  one  but  to  get  there  was  a  rough, mainly  trackless  passage  made  more  difficult  by  the  heat. Julie  didn't  twig  straight  away  on  the  summit  but  guessed  with  some  prompting. She  didn't  like  the  stepped  descent  from  the  hill  and  took  it  very  slowly. We  then  had  some  catching  up  to do  to  get  back  in  time to  pick  Simon  up and  halfway  down  to  Downham  decided  we  had  better  abandon  the  route  and  head  down  the  road  to  make  sure  we  caught  the  bus  back  to  Clitheroe.  We  did  the  missed  out  section  ( ironically  completely  trouble-free  and  probably  quicker  than  the  road )  as  a  short  walk  with  Simon   in  August.

Julie  and  I  did  the  next  section  from  Downham  to  Grindleton  on  a  school  day  in  October.  Again  I  didn't  tell  Julie  about  Sawley  Abbey  so  it  would  be  a   surprise  to  her. We  had  lunch  there  and  Julie  told  the  workers  from  English  Heritage  about  some  doggy-doo  bags  that  were  disfiguring  the  site. We  went  a  bit  off  route  at  the  end   as  the  field  boundaries  had  changed  making  the  fguide  misleading,

We  did  the  next  section  last  week ( August  2014 )  with  Simon. We  parked  in  Clitheroe  and  caught  the  bus  to  Grindleton. We  got  back  on  the  right  route  but  had  a  problem  at  Steelands  Farm  where  the  book  explicitly  said  don't  go  through  the  farmyard  but  the  avoidance  route  has  since  been  blocked  off  and  we  had  to  crawl  through  a  wall. There  was  a  tough  bit  just  beyond  there  where  you  have  to  cross  a  brook  and  then  go  up  a  steep  slope  but beyond  that  it  was  an  easy  and  pleasant  stroll  alongside  Grindleton  Forest  to  Walloper  Well  on  the  Waddington  Moor  road. Simon  and  I  wanted  to  press  on  to  Slaidburn  and  finish  the  walk  but  Julie  didn't  fancy  it.

I  warned  that  the  weather  might  not  be  as  good  when  we  came  back  to  it  and  was  proved  right  yesterday  when  we  set  off  along  the  short  but  rough  section  across  Standridge  Hill  in  a  heavy  shower.  The  rain  had  also  made  the  wooden  stiles  very  slippery  on  the  descent  towards  the  Hodder  valley  and  we  had  some  difficulty  getting  over  them  safely.  The  path  had  changed  to  the  other  side  of  the  fence / hedge  since  the  book  ( or  they  got  it  wrong )  and  now  went  through  a  copse  festooned  with  quails  for  the  local  shooting  brigade  which  entailed  ploughing  through  thistles.  The  final  section  from  Easington  was  easy  and  pleasant.  We  had  a  meal  at  the  cafe  in  Slaidburn  then  took  the  bus  back  to  Walloper  Well.

Despite  the  little  problems  encountered  it  is  a  good  route  and  it  seems  a  shame  that  it  never  took  off.